Climbers and mountaineers give countless reasons for doing the sports they love, and you'll rarely get one to admit that ego is one of their motivating factors—but you'll equally struggle to find one who wouldn't prefer to climb a 4,000m (13,123 feet) peak than a 3,999m (13,120 feet) peak. There's just something cool about ticking a peak above a landmark altitude—doubly so when it's one of the legendary Alpine 4000ers.
The exact number of 4000m peaks in the European Alps is somewhat disputed because it depends on your definition of an independent peak, but most mountaineers agree on the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) total of 82. (In case you're wondering, the 82 were decided upon because they have a prominence of at least 30 meters from the highest adjacent peak or col, and they are deemed to be independent summits given the mountain's morphology and the position of the high point in question.)
Regardless of how they're quantified, the 4000ers are more about romance than cold, hard analysis, so most people go with the official list of 82 when totaling up their 4000er tally. Which all begs the question: how do you get your 4000er climbing career underway? Today I'll cover some basic strategies to get you prepared and suggest which of the peaks are suitable objectives for starting your journey to 82!
Without wishing to state the obvious—climbing a 4000er is a physical challenge, so the fitter you are, the better your chances of succeeding and having some fun along the way. Any sort of cardiovascular sport will help your preparation, but I feel that weight training is an underrated element of getting "hill fit." When you've got a pack on your back, mountaineering boots on your feet, and a long way to go, having some strength to go with your cardio fitness is vital. Any exercise which engages your legs and core will help your cause, but I think that front squats and deadlifts are the two exercises that translate best to climbing mountains. Ultimately the best training for any activity is actually doing it, so take every opportunity to get some mountain mileage in and supplement it with weights, cycling, and whatever else gets your heart pumping!
Acclimatisation is also a key element to success, and whilst you might just be able to sneak up some of the lower 4000ers without any acclimatisation, spending a few days around 3000m ahead of the big day will make life much easier, safer, and more enjoyable. Check out our article here for some advice on acclimatizing.
So assuming that you're fit, acclimatized, and have solid, basic mountaineering skills - where to start? Well, here goes:
Allalinhorn (4,027m / 13,211 feet)
With no technical difficulty and a cable car that whisks you to within 600 vertical meters of the summit, the Allalinhorn is probably the easiest 4000er of the lot. It's a well-trodden glacial walk, and whilst there is some crevasse risk and mild exposure on the summit ridge, it's a pretty simple peak to climb. The views from the summit across the surrounding Zermatt and Saas-Fee 4000ers are staggering, and spending some time up there identifying other peaks in preparation for future adventures is a wise use of half an hour.
Strahlhorn (4190m / 13,746 feet)
If, after climbing Allalinhorn, you're back down in Saas-Fee and pondering what a logical next step would be—here's your answer. The Strahlhorn is a much longer ascent than the Allalinhorn, and the crevasse risk is higher, but it's still essentially a non-technical glacial walk and is a logical step up from lift-accessed day routes. Climbing the Strahlhorn requires you to stay in the wonderful Britannia Hut, and the unique experience of sleeping in an alpine refuge (which, by the way, you'll need to book in advance) only adds to the richness of the trip.
Mönch (4107m / 13,474 feet)
In good conditions, the Mönch is a fabulous mountaineering objective, nestled in amongst some of the most famous and spectacular mountains in Europe. Even the train journey from Grindelwald to the Jungfraujoch is incredible and takes you beneath and then into (seriously) the north face of the Eiger. The train is expensive—you're in Switzerland after all—but worth it not only for the pleasure of the journey but also because it deposits you high in the mountains, less than an hour's easy walk from the foot of the Mönch's southeast ridge.
The ridge itself is exposed and requires solid crampon skills, as well as some scrambling, but it's not technically challenging if snow conditions are good. Later in the summer, when the ridge is icy, it can be difficult and dangerous, so ensure that you get an up-to-date conditions report before setting off. If you get the conditions and weather right, then you're in for a treat!
Bishorn (4153m / 13,635 feet)
Wild and remote but technically easy, the Bishorn sits just below one of the toughest 4000ers of all—the mighty Weisshorn. Getting close to this most famous of peaks is one of the main incentives for climbing the Bishorn, which is a true 2-day ascent because reaching the hut below it (the Cabane de Tracuit) is a tough day in itself. The technical requirements of climbing the Bishorn are not great, but the fitness requirements most certainly are!
Gran Paradiso (4061m / 13,323 feet)
The highest mountain completely in Italy (all of the country's other 4000ers are on the French or Swiss borders), the Gran Paradiso is a popular peak with a spectacular summit tower. The mountain can be climbed from several places, but the trip up from the lovely Emmanuele Hut is the most commonly-done route, with minimal technicality until the short (bolt-protected) scramble onto the summit proper.
Being in Italy, the food at the Emmanuele is as good as in any alpine hut, and standing on the highest point in any country is pretty cool, so Gran Paradiso is highly recommended!
If climbing these five magnificent peaks has whetted your appetite and fired your ambition, here are some suggestions of where to head next on your 4000ers adventure!
Written by
Charlie Boscoe
