How to Go Bikepacking in Iceland
Vuelta ciclística
, by Chris Case
The beauty of Iceland can’t be overstated, and it’s best experienced from the saddle of a bike.
There are few places on Earth that offer such wildly contrasting extremes as Iceland. It’s this juxtaposition—things like iceberg-filled lagoons not far from black sand deserts—that makes the island so incredibly beautiful and raw.
Known as the “Land of Fire and Ice,” emerald-green grasses along the gnarled coastline abruptly crash into bleak, black volcanic sands. Roaring waterfalls shower mists onto nearby lava flows. For the pinnacle in freedom and challenge, bikepacking through this raw, remote, and rugged environment allows you to more fully appreciate both the power of nature and your humble place in it.
The nation makes it easy to do: You can build your bike in the purpose-built facility at Keflavik airport, known as “The Pit.” Then set off in whichever direction you choose.
Route planning for bikepacking in Iceland
The Icelandic coastline is captivating. You’ll be accompanied by soaring seabirds—curlews and Arctic terns, which may or may not dive-bomb your head. Don’t be surprised if a herd of birds float along beside you, keeping you company on the lonelier stretches of road.
But no journey in Iceland would be complete without a jaunt (or a days-long immersion in) the uninhabited interior, known as the Highlands. It might be a stark, black desert, but the area is also laced with hundreds of rivers, some of which rage and others which trickle. Many of the rivers lack bridge crossings, which can mean wading through bone-chilling waters.
In Iceland, the concept of “freedom to roam” has traditionally been protected by law. The 1999 Nature Conservation Act enshrined the right to camp: “Along public routes in unsettled areas, normal tents may be set up either on privately owned land or national land.”
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So, generally, if there is an established campsite nearby, use it and pay for a pitch. Private property is just that—private. Ask permission before you do anything. But there are over 170 campsites in Iceland, with many of them open year-round.
Since Iceland sits so close to the Arctic Circle, summer days are filled with nearly continuous daylight. And without any impetus to set up camp before sundown, you can ride into the night.
Gear selection for Icelandic bikepacking
As you might imagine, choosing the appropriate gear for a bikepacking trip on a nearly treeless island near the Arctic Circle, one famous for frequent bursts of inclement weather, is challenging.
Weatherproof gear is essential, and since space is in short supply in your bikepacking bags, it needs to be packable and durable. Shelters and sleeping bags need to be warm, light, and built for inclement weather, even in the summer.
If you’re new to bikepacking or if Iceland is a big step up in terms of commitment, start by making a master list of all the things you think you’ll need. Check it twice. Run it by friends and compare it to other lists you might find online.
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Every ride you take is an opportunity to test gear or at least ruminate about gear selection: Which chamois is going to be the most comfortable? Which would be the most versatile outer layer? Do I need one jersey or two? Do I need a water filter or not?
Ask yourself these questions over time so you aren’t cramming them into the final week before your trip. Add things to your list, subtract things from your list. I keep a master list in the Notes app of my phone so it’s always with me and easy to update. You might need to buy a couple new things, but mostly I like to gather pieces of gear that I love and that have proven I can trust.
Finally, after rounds of deliberation and consultation, make a pile of potential gear choices and see if, and how, they will fit into your bags. Total carrying capacity is the first significant concern. Next you need to decide how to distribute the weight, and how to optimize access to frequently used items.
Pack, unpack, and try it all again. Ride with the new setup and see how it feels. Nothing beats real-world testing.
Putting forethought into your choices will reduce the risk of big surprises or disappointments out on tour. Hopefully, you use everything you carry except for the few things you bring that you hope to never use: tools, tubes, and other repair items.
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As they say, prepare for the worst, hope for the best. Bring the rain gear, and hope that you need sunscreen (this has happened to me in Iceland).
Be equipped with a large range of gears (at least a 1:1 low gear, but preferably more). Bring a musette bag or small backpack to carry extra food; there aren’t many places to refuel once you get out there. Water abounds, so bring a compact water filter or filter bottle and replenish on the go.
Here are a few more specific pieces of gear that I’ll highlight, given their overall importance in a country like Iceland.
Tires
When it comes to tires, I’d caution against trying something new for a trip like this. Go with a tire that has served you well in the past. This is a harsh land, with jagged rocks, and few bike shops to repair sliced sidewalls.
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I prefer mixed-terrain trips, so I run tires for such conditions. If your focus is to ride in the rugged interior, bring a gravel or mountain bike fitted with a minimum of 45mm (or 2.25-inch in the case of MTB) tires with a knobby tread pattern. However, many of the dirt roads closer to the coast are far less rough—some are even glassy smooth—and in that case an all-road or gravel bike with a 38mm tire would do just fine.
Clothes
What happens when you run out of room in all your bikepacking bags and you need a place to store your delicate, precious bananas? (Bananas are rare in Iceland, so when you see some, you buy them all.) Cargo bib shorts are the answer. The mesh side pockets will prove useful time and again—for extra food, empty wrappers, mobile phone, clothing items that come on and off multiple times a day. Most importantly, though, make certain they are comfortable.
In terms of outerwear, something that is light, packable, and weatherproof is the holy trinity of cycling kit. Seek something that you can wear day after day to fight back against the wind, mists, and chill. And since it will come off and go back on repeatedly, and be stuffed in all manner of tight places, make sure it is durable.
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You might consider a bright-colored outer layer; this will have some visibility benefit when riding on narrow roads under overcast skies.
In the end, think long and hard about which pieces of clothing to bring. Windproof? Yes. Waterproof? Indeed. Durable and compact? Yes and yues. Always bring the most versatile and resilient layers; Icelandic weather is fickle.
Written by
Chris Case